Despite leaving on Nov. 11 and arriving locally two days later, our successive flights to New Zealand (from Tampa, FL to Los Angeles, CA, then Auckland and Queenstown) went like a breeze.
We had good seats, service, and weather, so that upon our arrival Chip was ready for his pilot checkride to Waunaka in the South Island.
Our first impression of New Zealand was a very friendly, relaxing one, with locals welcoming us warmly and all going smoothly as planned.
Sue, one of the part-time pilots for Geordie Hill Station (the farm property we stayed at), was at the airport to greet us and direct us in the air towards Waunaka. Once there, we met with our next pilot guide, Pete, who also runs a Tiger Moth operation. He makes sure foreign pilots are qualified to brave New Zealand’s mountain flying conditions in a 180-hp Cessna 172. Chip had no problem confirming his skills as Pilot-in-Command, and we were soon in sight of the station.
What a magnificent property! Imagine a lush valley with cattle and sheep scattered throughout green fields; a cluster of farm houses with adjacent barns and horse paddocks; a creek lined with bird-filled trees running throughout; and finally, the grass airstrip we landed on! This spectacular world was to become ours for the next twelve days…
Needless to say, our arrival had been perfectly prepared by Matt and Jo, our hosting couple and owners of Geordie Hill Station. As they knew Chip from a past booking with their Fly Inn Company, and Veronique from Oshkosh, they’d reserved the best intimate cottage on site—their former home.
It came comfortably furnished and filled with everything we needed or might have wished for, including delicious food & beverage, fresh flowers, music, and of course, wood for the fireplace… Idyllic!
That afternoon, we settled in easily, and then took to the fields to explore the surroundings and all their natural elements. By the evening, our appetites were quite built up and we were royally treated to the first of many superb dinners cooked by Jo. Her cooking was always full of personal touches and an attention to detail worthy of a true professional.
Strolling back to our cottage with lamb-filled stomachs, we breathed in the fresh evening air and admired the starry skies before collapsing in bed for the deepest of well-earned sleeps. Our adventure was just beginning!
DAY ONE 11/14/08
Chip was already fixing breakfast with fresh farm eggs and press-machine coffee at 7 am, before we headed towards the main house to meet up with Sue and organize our day.
The weather called for a great trip to the world-famous Milford Sound, and we were not disappointed!
Take-off time was at 9:30 am, heading West towards Waunaka; then South through the Cardrona Saddle onto Queenstown; following Lake Wakatipu to Rat Point; passing Afton Burn Saddle to the Von River; crossing the Marora Lakes, the Whitestone and Upukerora Rivers; to finally land at the Te Anau airfield to refuel.
Our trip continued with more saddles, and rivers, and varied topography named after a wide diversity of Maori and Anglo-Saxon origins typical throughout New Zealand’s landscape.
We soon arrived at Milford Sound where a tight pattern surrounded by steep mountains could challenge even the most experienced of pilots. Chip landed skillfully and we were readily booking a cruise on the fjord. Waterfalls, blue penguins, seals, and the Tasmanian Sea were all part of the unforgettable experience…
After a light lunch and an energetic walk through a forest trail, we flew off towards the East and the imposing Mount Aspiring. It is difficult to describe the sense of awe felt as we approached this Matterhorn-like peak… Not only was its size and shape extraordinary, but it was also home to hidden mountain lakes and splendid glaciers carving their mysterious motion through its generous sides.
We were perfectly content with the sights, but Sue had more in store for us: Big Bay, and the beach, where we landed! Not a soul in sight, and the kind of landing usually chosen as an engine failure emergency option… Yet so unspoiled and inviting. Sure enough, Chip once more aced the landing, and we were able to collect the most special seashells for our boys’ collection!
DAY TWO
Matt fetched us for a full, intense day of turbulent 40+ knots winds and jet boating on the Dart River. Add to that a flight at 12,000 feet to circle Mount Cook and its nearby glaciers—the Tasman and Franz Josef—and we were close to heaven!
In fact, once we landed in picturesque Glenorchy overlooking Mount Aspiring National Park, the entire itinerary included the kind of “Lord of the Rings” sights and trivia most tourists look forward to.
Of course, we were also taught about the real Maori history and its ecological richness. Like the Hawaiians and other Polynesian cultures, the Maoris have a close relationship to nature. Not only did they base a multitude of tales and myths on natural elements, but their survival also depended on a deep understanding of and respect for Mother Nature. Nowadays, despite much progress and its negative effects, New Zealand is very serious about preserving its past and land through ongoing conservation efforts throughout the nation.
At the end of the day, we left Glenorchy more elated and educated than before…
DAY THREE
The weather was not ideal for flying, so we borrowed one of Geordie Hill Station’s cars instead and went off on a scenic drive towards Queenstown (on the left side of the road!).
Our path took us past the towns of Cromwell for Manuka (local flower) honey; Tarras for Merino (best sheep breed) wool; bungee-jumping spots over dramatic gorges; lakes; pastures; wineries; and in the end, “the adventure capital” of Queenstown.
True, Queenstown is the alpine gateway to the surrounding Remarkable Ranges, while also sitting beside Lake Wakatipu. In short, it offers an assortment of mountain and water-based activities in one thrilling adventure package.
We had to check out the elusive Kiwi bird found only in New Zealand, and in this case, available for viewing at the Kiwi and Birdlife Park. Also unique to the country was the Tuatara, a prehistoric reptile capable of living hundreds of years.
We learned a lot about these species and their endangered status due to introduced mammals like stoats, possums, rabbits, and so on.
We enjoyed the rest of the day in town shopping for the special “Paua” shell and Merino wool products, and then headed back to the station in time to enjoy a restful Sunday evening. Not bad for a day off flying!
DAY FOUR
The next two days were spent visiting the historic city of Christchurch and getting acquainted with all the interesting spots on the way there and back…
We stopped first at Omarama to gas up, which happens to be the world’s top gliding sites. In anticipation of North Westerly winds (the nor’ wester) a few days later, we managed to book a flight for what is known as the best mountain wave lift! But that would have to wait.
We continued our way up the Eastern Coast past farming plains and through thick rain, soon landing under beautiful clear skies to check in at the Canterbury Aeroclub’s pilot lounge. Matt had already arranged to have a car waiting to take us to the International Antarctic Center (IAC).
The United States and New Zealand cooperate in Antarctic exploration through training and operation of flights in C17s and C-130s from Christchurch. Next to the training base was the IAC offering a demonstration of potential challenges faced by crews in Antarctica.
One of these challenges was a simulated storm inside a cold room, with blasting winds and temperatures reaching the low 20s Celsius. Another was a ride in a Haglund ATV, climbing inclines of up to 45 degrees, and crossing through fake crevasses and melting ice.
On a milder side, we watched rare blue penguins strutting around and swimming in their habitat, but that wasn’t enough to make us sign up for Antarctic duty anytime soon!
Following that visit, we drove to our lovely hotel, the Classic Villa.
It epitomized the thriving, attractive spirit of the city with its Gothic revival and modern architectural styles. Being centrally situated on Worchester Street, we were able to stroll around by foot past charming gardens and art galleries, or hop on an antique tramway and circle the entire downtown alongside the Avon River. Again, we enjoyed the best of foods and wines at a trendy restaurant. Kiwis know how to live, no doubt about it!
DAY FIVE
The next morning, we walked around Christchurch some more before being invited to a private demo of the Martin Jetpack. For those who are not familiar with the concept, it is a jet-propelled individual “vertical flying machine” (the closest analogy being the Bell jet belt).
Martin Jetpack had taken its prototype to Oshkosh, and since that time we’d wanted to find out more about the product. Given that their headquarters were in Christchurch, what better opportunity than to meet the makers and the product in their own turf?
After a three-hour tour of the factory and a full demonstration and presentation of the latest model, we were very impressed by Glenn Martin’s production goals. We are continuing contact with the company, and certainly hope to cooperate with them in the near future.
After this extraordinary visit, we headed back home by a different route flying through the Mackenzie Pass, and landed in time for a succulent dinner of venison prepared by Jo.
DAY SIX
The weather once again dictated our choice of activities, and as a windy trend was in place, we spent the morning on the ground farming: Sheep-shearing, livestock repositioning, and even a lesson in pasture management!
Matt picked two sheep which we named them Rob and Roy (they turned out to be females, oh well), and we each took turns shearing them carefully, peeling the warm and soft Merino wool off their thick bodies. We kept some of it to show Alexander and Nicholas what pure wool feels like…Sumptuous.
Then Shelwyn and Neville, both seasonal helpers at Geordie Hill, drove us around the farm to muster the livestock with the help of their dogs. We first moved the cattle, and next gathered sheep from the outlying paddocks closer to the main station in preparation for the “tailing” of the young ones (ie. cutting the tails off). There were over 4,000 sheep and a few hundred cows, so there was a lot of work to do, but to us it equated to fun!
After we were done with that, we borrowed the car once again to spend the afternoon in the town of Wanaka. We visited its Warbirds Museum at the same field where the international airshow is held; and while in the mood, we stopped by a nearby shooting club to try out their clay-bird option. Quite different from what we’d tried before, but we managed pretty well with four hits each.
Wanaka qualified as postcard scenery with a pristine lake, surrounding mountain ranges, and the serene charm of a small alpine resort. It reminded Veronique of her upbringing in Switzerland, and Chip of his Canadian background…
DAY SEVEN
An early start in order to reach Stewart Island before noon, as we had a complete tour with fishing and island sight-seeing booked for one o’clock.
The flight South took us past some of the most fertile plains of New Zealand, as well as a dramatic coastline with sharp cliffs and dangerous surfing shores. Once we had The Bluff in sight, we veered towards the open waters to cross the Foveaux Strait.
The minuscule Dog Island appeared first with its solitary lighthouse; then Kuapuke Island and its few Maori settlements; the series of Mutton Bird Islands; and finally Stewart Island’s Half Moon Bay. We landed at the Ryan’s Creek airfield, a simple asphalt strip at the top of a windy hill.
As usual, Matt had already organized transportation to town, dropping us off near the Rakiura Environmental Center for a quick briefing on the main “tramps” (hikes!). We learned about the endangered Kakapo parrot (only 85 left in the world), and all the preservation efforts by the residents to ensure their local habitat does not fall prey to tourism’s exploitation.
After a great plate of green-lipped mussels at the Wharf, we boarded the vessel “Aurora” and headed out towards Ulva Island to fish. Birds followed us aggressively, eating the discarded bits of fish the hired crew tossed at them. As time went on, we managed to catch six blue cods and a shark, the largest species Veronique had ever hooked!
Included in our tour was a stop at a historic whalers’ base at Prices Inlet, as well as a leisurely cruise of Paterson Inlet to view hidden coves and unspoiled beaches.
We returned around 5 pm and flew back to Geordie Hill with dinner in our coolers, counting another day in New Zealand as unforgettable…
FRIDAY
An easy-going, late start before spending the most exciting time gliding in Omarama!
Southern Soaring catered to both experienced glider pilots and beginners, “teaching the art of using lift from ridges, thermals, and mountain waves to explore some of New Zealand’s most spectacular scenery”. And they did as promised.
While there was a competition waiting to begin with 200+ gliders on the ground, Chip opted to accompany the company’s assigned pilot, Chris Rudge, in a special Rhonlerche to check the conditions aloft. But instead of returning soon after to switch onto a more modern glider, they decided to break an altitude record in that model, 13,000 feet! Meanwhile, Veronique was having her own good aerobatic time with Mike Till doing up to four consecutive loops near the field.
As far as we were concerned, Omarama lived up to its worldwide reputation as being one of the best soaring spots, period. No wonder it was among the late Steve Fossett’s favorites… Read more about our day in the Southern Soaring website: http://www.soaring.co.nz/Southern_Soaring_Whats_New.html (November 23, 2008)
LAST DAY
We had use of the car a last time so we drove to Queenstown again in order to sail on the NZL 14, a retired New Zealand’s America’s Cup racing yacht. Veronique had actually seen it in San Diego back in 1991 when she was covering the World Championships Race!
We met the crew at the Yacht Club and departed Steamer Wharf with other guests. At once, the sheer size of the yacht’s components was amazing, and the views from Lake Wakatipu were equally stunning. But what we enjoyed the most was the opportunity to take the helm, grind, and eventually push the limits of the yacht to the point of tearing both jib and mainsail! The skipper was a “wee bit” sorry about the damage, but we were all quite thrilled to celebrate the great sail with drinks ashore at the Yacht Club…
Later, we made our way back slowly with a stop at the historical gold-mining Arrowtown, and a relaxing dinner at a rustic restaurant serving lamb. Ironically, upon our return to the farm, we encountered a lone little one wandering around, its life safe for now. The reality of a farming environment is not always kind to animals, although they have it pretty good at Geordie Hill.
Veronique had initially thought about “adopting” a sheep, as she and the boys had adopted an owl at a Bird Sanctuary in Florida. However, that idea was dropped after the realization that sheep are definitely not endangered in New Zealand!
Our trip confirmed a variety of facts about this unique country, and helped correct notions we might have wrongly formed before experiencing the Kiwi world first-hand. We can only find words of praise for its land, culture, and people. New Zealand is definitely the best at “maakitanga ki nga manuhiri” (hosting of visitors)!